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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. However, nestled high among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.